Riso Ferron, located outside of Verona, Italy, has grown and processed rice since 1650. The mill still works — they demonstrated it — but the company now operates a large processing plant offsite.
Following the tour of the rice paddies and the old mill, we enjoyed a five-course lunch in the restaurant Pila Vecia, literally “old pile,” which refers to the mortar component in the mill that grinds the hulls off the rice. The restaurant is housed in an elegantly rustic second-floor dining room on the property with an open kitchen and a staff willing to share their secrets.
Here’s what I learned: The Ferron farm grows several different types of rice, but when I mentioned Arborio, the short-grain Italian rice typically used for risotto in the United States, I got a polite but firm rebuff, a shake of the head and a click of the tongue, “tut, tut.”
The two rice varietals Ferron grows and uses for risotto are Nano (small) and Carnaroli (slightly longer and starchier, known as the “king” or “caviar” of risotto rice). Carnaroli is said to hold its shape and texture through the liquid’s absorption. Nano is renowned for producing a creamy risotto; its shape and texture take in liquid well without making the rice mushy.
The recipes provided by the Ferron chef were a shockingly simple way to make risotto and — get this — they don’t require standing over the hot pot stirring for 30 minutes. They simply put the hot broth into the rice and let the recipe work its magic.
Risotto Amarone
Serves 4
This recipe is typical of the region and is unique because of its use of the local red wine. The dish looks beautiful and is a good use of wine that is leftover and perhaps a bit past optimal consumption.
Amarone is far too extravagant of a splurge to pour anywhere but in a glass to be savored, so for this recipe, I use whatever red wine is relegated to cooking status in my kitchen.
If you can’t get Carnaroli rice, use Arborio.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 cup Carnaroli rice
1 cup red wine
3 cups vegetable broth
¾ cup grated Grana Padano or Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons butter
A handful of fresh basil, chopped into ribbons
Salt, pepper to taste
In a large saucepan, heat the oil and sauté the onions and garlic over medium heat. When fragrant, add the rice to coat it.
Meanwhile, in a separate pot, heat the wine until just short of boiling, and add it to the rice. Stir to blend and lower the heat.
While the wine is cooking with the rice, heat the broth to boiling. When hot, add the broth to the rice mixture, stir, lower the heat to a simmer and cover. Cook for 15 minutes until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is cooked to al dente.
Remove the rice from the heat and add the cheese and butter. Stir to blend. Add salt/pepper to taste and stir in the chopped basil. Serve topped with a few basil leaves for decoration.
Cheese Risotto Topped with Onion “Jam”
This preparation was just amazing — the risotto itself was creamy and delicious, and the onion drizzle delivered the perfect tangy contrast. The chef said she simmers the onion in red wine overnight, but I have accomplished similar results in far less time. If you have leftovers, the onion jam is great on grilled meats, spread on crostini or tossed over pasta.
Onion “Jam”
Makes about ⅔ cup
2 onions, sliced thinly
1 tablespoon olive oil
Sprinkle of salt
2 cups red wine
In a small saucepan, sauté the onion in oil with a bit of salt until softened. Add the wine and bring it to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, until the wine is reduced and the onions are dissolving/breaking down. This will take about an hour; watch it carefully so it doesn’t burn and add a bit of water if needed.
Taste for seasonings; add salt and pepper if needed.
Cheese Risotto
Serves 4
This risotto contained a local cheese called Monte Veronese. If this is hard to come by, try equivalent amounts of grated fontina, asiago or taleggio.
If Nano rice is not available, use Arborio.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup nano rice
4 cups vegetable broth
Salt and pepper to taste
¾ cup grated Monte Veronese cheese
2 tablespoons butter
In a large saucepan, heat the oil and sauté the onions and garlic over medium heat. When fragrant, add the rice to coat it.
Meanwhile, in a separate pot, heat the broth to boiling. When hot, add the broth to the rice mixture, stir, lower the heat to a simmer and cover. Cook for 15 minutes until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is cooked to al dente.
Remove it from the heat and add the cheese and butter. Stir to blend. Add salt/pepper to taste. Drizzle the onion jam over the top and serve.
