If it’s 7:30 a.m., Sheryl Borish can be found in the kitchen of Marathon Grill at 19th and Spruce streets prepping ingredients and overseeing the commissary in advance of the day.
“We launched Marathon in 1984. It’s been such a big part of my life,” she said with a smile.
“When I think of my priorities, it’s my family — kids, grandkids — and Marathon. My staff are like family; they are my best friends, and some of them have been with me for nearly 30 years. That is really rare in the restaurant business.”
The history of Marathon is a classic Philadelphia story. The Borish family owned a Baskin-Robbins Ice Cream shop in Roosevelt Mall in Northeast Philadelphia. They always wanted to open a restaurant, so when the adjacent space opened, they grabbed it.
“The first shop was like 400 square feet, maybe 10 tables. We had a very small menu: filet mignon, grilled chicken, a few salads, a hamburger,” Borish recalled. “We were next to Wanamakers, and the girls working the cosmetic counters used to come in and request more salads, tweaks on dishes, different items. We would try to meet their requests, and we expanded the menu accordingly. Then one day a car pulled up, and Ronny Rubin [who is credited with driving Center City’s revival] walked in.
“Ronny had heard about our place and invited us to open in Suburban Square. We did, and we’ve been in Center City ever since.”
But it all comes down to family, and Borish waxes poetic when she talks about hers.
“My sons Jon and Cary are in the business, but they also have their own ventures. Cary has a restaurant, Sally’s, which is named for my mother — her recipes are still used in our menus. The family is really bonded around food. I love to cook and feed people and watch them eat my food, so we have a family dinner at my house every Thursday. The kids and the grandkids all come and bring friends. It’s a wonderful way to keep us connected. I guess it’s my way of giving. Food is my love language!”
Borish kvells when speaking about her grandchildren.
“We’ve loved celebrating their bar and bat mitzvahs, and we have another one coming up this December. Judaism is an important part of our lives and our traditions; we’re Jews! We talk about it all the time,” she said. “It’s part of our identity — we support Israel and give to Jewish charities as much as we can.
“And the holidays are really special and joyful. … We serve traditional foods at Marathon during the holidays and beyond — chopped liver, matzah ball soup, and we offer these items as takeout so people who don’t have time to cook can still observe the traditions.”
When asked what keeps her heading into the kitchen daily at 7:30 a.m. at an age when many of her contemporaries have hung up their spatulas, Borish is clear.
“I’m old. I’m not going to tell you how old, but I’m old. I love my customers, especially the multi-generational families that have been coming in for years as young adults, then married couples, with their children, and now with their grandchildren. We’ve been around long enough to see families grow and change, and it’s beautiful. I love creating new dishes, and I love watching people eat our food. I love watching the business thrive and grow. It’s a tough business, no doubt about it, and it can be stressful, but it’s in my blood.”
The secret of her success is simple.
“Quality and consistency. We are not gourmet, but our food is always good — there is an expectation that you have to meet. I always say, ‘A restaurant is only as good as your last meal.’ We have relationships with local suppliers that go back decades … My chef, James Alford, has been with Marathon for like 30 years. I just trained a 25-year veteran on how to make matzah balls — until recently, I was making them myself every day using the recipe and technique my mother taught me. The continuity is unique and has been a key factor in how we have stayed true over the long haul.”
When she’s not at the helm of Marathon’s kitchen, Borish, a former runner, takes long walks. She also enjoys spending time at the beach and dining out with her husband.
As she looks forward to her 40th anniversary in the business, Borish feels gratitude.
“I thank God for my health, that I can still do this job that I find so gratifying and I’m enjoying every day,” she said.
