Jules Polonetsky
Are Israeli wines world-class? Those like me with a strong affinity for our homeland have no doubt, and we can point to Israeli wineries that regularly are awarded top scores.
Wineries such as Castel, Flam and the Golan Heights Winery rack up medals at competitions worldwide. Jezreel Winery’s Carignan recently became the first kosher and Israeli wine on the menu at a 3-star Michelin restaurant in France.
But it’s clear that the broader wine world has not taken much note of Israeli wines. Walk into any general wine store and there are always sections devoted to France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Austria and sometimes Greece. Argentina and Chile are represented, as are Australia and South Africa. Several states in the U.S. are a mainstay with California, Oregon and Washington usually receiving top billing.
There is never an Israeli wine section, outside of kosher wine stores. There may be a kosher wine section — with Israeli wines represented for the convenience of the kosher consumer — but general customers have no exposure to Israel as a wine region. The WSET 3 course I took recently is the standard in the wine trade and requires extensive knowledge about winemaking in dozens of areas of the world. Israel is not included.
Why is this?
It’s true that creating a reputation for a region in the world of wine can take many decades, given the long history of winemaking in the top areas. Although there is a historic record of winemaking in Israel thousands of years ago, this production was either for sacramental purposes or produced basic wines of low quality. Only in the 1970s did the first quality dry wines begin to be produced in Israel.
Perhaps Israel needs a “Judgment of Paris” moment, like the famous 1976 wine competition where Napa Valley red and white wines bested top French wines in a dramatic blind-tasting showdown. California winemaking had been devastated by Prohibition in the U.S. and, although by the 1970s, top California wines were gaining attention, the so-called New World Cabernet and Chardonnay wines weren’t considered in the same league as the Old World French elite wines. The Judgment of Paris put California wines at the top of the list.
Israel does make some superb cabernets. The Golan Heights Winery Yarden El Rom Cabernet Sauvignon sells for more than $100, is aged 18 months in French oak barrels and is “a sophisticated wine for a mature palate,” according to kosherwine.com. This wine will age well for far more than a decade, with additional notes developing as the tannins in the wine soften.
But can Israel ever be truly famous for cabernet sauvignon or merlot when it is competing with France, California and other countries that have top reputations? Some experts note that Israel’s warm Mediterranean climate may not be the best for cabernet or merlot, as the French Bordeaux region famed for these grapes is decidedly cooler and wetter. And although Napa Valley California is a warm region, the best wine areas in Napa are cooled by mountain elevations and cold air coming up from the San Francisco Bay.
Israel has mountainous areas, such as the Golan Heights and Judean Hills, but most of Israel has a warm Mediterranean climate, similar to areas of Italy or the Rhone winemaking region of France. A few leading Israeli winemakers have become advocates for the importance of focusing on Mediterranean varietals such as Carignan, Grenache and Petite Sirah. Many of these winemakers are championing white wines, which they argue are better suited to Israeli cuisine and are lighter and refreshing to drink in hot climates.
One of Israel’s top winemakers, Netofa’s Pierrer Miodownick, is committed to finding varietals most appropriate for the Israeli climate and terroir. Located in the foothills of Mt Tavor, Netofa makes some lovely white wines. Royal Wines recently sent me some wines to review, and I was excited that one of them was the Netofa LATOUR Chenin Blanc.
Chenin Blanc is a grape native to France’s Rhone Valley, and the complex and structured white wine demonstrates the potential of Israel’s terroir when matched with the right grapes. Medium-bodied with notes of tart pear, quince, lime and good acidity, this is a serious wine that can be enjoyed with a full meal or as an enjoyable warm weather wine for a picnic. You should be able to buy this non-mevushal bottle for
about $30.
One challenge for Israeli winemakers championing white wines is that the kosher market today is heavily skewed toward red wines. Some of this is driven by the desire for red wines for kiddush, but some of the demand is due to a misimpression that red wines are a higher quality production and whites aren’t as serious for connoisseurs.
Hopefully, quality white wines emerging from Israel will start changing that view. Evidence from restaurants in Israel, which often indicates leading trends, shows that Israelis are starting to drink more white wine.
With summer approaching, now is the time to stock up on some good white wines. Avoid bottles that are a few years old, as most white wines are meant to be consumed early after release. Serve them chilled and enjoy.
Jules Polonetsky is a Wine and Spirits Education Trust Level 3 Certified wine expert who writes for the Wine and Whiskey Globe when not occupied with his day job as CEO of a tech policy think tank. He is a former consumer affairs commissioner of the City of New York.
