It's Friday night, and I'm in Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan, standing outside the House of Israel Synagogue and wishing there were a service I could attend.
As it happens, I'm late -- by nearly 18 years. This synagogue closed its doors in September 1990, leaving only a cement plaque outside as evidence that it was, indeed, a synagogue, serving a Jewish community in this small prairie town since 1926.
Today, it's a dance school, with windows boarded up against the sunlight and weeds growing prolifically around the building. But there was a time when the House of Israel Synagogue was a hub of activity, with regular Shabbat services and social get-togethers.
"Everybody pitched in and was friendly in our Jewish community; it was like a big family," recalls Sam Cohen, who lived in Moose Jaw from 1957 until 1988.
"We had a Hadassah that was very active, and a B'nai Brith that did a lot of work in the gentile community. We kept kosher, and we knew we were Jews, but ultimately the community disintegrated because you brought up the children to leave -- you didn't want them staying, you wanted them in more of a Jewish environment."
His brother, Jack Cohen, who owned a pharmacy with Sam, agrees. "Moose Jaw was a good place to be a Jew between the '50s and the '70s, except that there weren't enough kids for our children to socialize with.
"But we had lots of fun as a community. I remember we'd have dances, picnics, card games and lots of get-togethers. There would be services Friday nights and some Saturday mornings, and there was a Jewish cheder for the children after regular school hours."
Lillian Butts remembers that cheder well, even at the ripe age of 85. The daughter of a Russian-born father and a Romanian mother, she was born in this town in 1921 and lived there until 1943.
"We had to go to cheder three times a week, and I hated it," she says with a gleam in her eyes. "My mother, Rose Schwartz, was one of the few Jews who kept a kosher home in Moose Jaw, so when Jewish travelers came to town and required kosher meals, they came to us. My mother would be up at 5 a.m. on Fridays baking challah, and all week, we'd look forward to our traditional Shabbat dinner of chicken soup and meat."
Butts remembers a childhood marked by poverty, as her father, a junk dealer, struggled to make a living. "In a way, Moose Jaw was a sad place," she says. "One neighbor took to chasing me home [from school] every day, because I was Jewish and we 'killed Jesus.' There were a lot of anti-Semites in town when I was growing up. But I thought to myself, I have just as much right to be here as you have."
Still, she has good memories of her life in Moose Jaw, and of attending dances as a young adult at the Temple Gardens Dance Hall, along with friends. She recalls the natural spring well that was discovered accidentally in 1910, when someone was drilling for oil. When she lived there, a natatorium was built around it, and "everyone went there for health baths," says Butts.
The dance hall has long been demolished, but its name lives on as the Temple Gardens Mineral Springs Resort, attracting a wide range of travelers who come to experience its hot mineral water drawn from more than 4,500 feet beneath the earth's surface.
They come to luxuriate in the hot water, and to explore the Tunnels of Moose Jaw, a series of underground, interconnected passages that snake their way beneath the city's downtown roads and stores.
"When I lived there, I was not aware that the tunnels existed," Butts confesses. "We knew there were bootleggers in town at one point, but not how they dealt or where exactly they were located."
That's because for some 75 years, Moose Jaw city leaders denied the tunnels' existence, hoping to keep its unkosher history under wraps. Their plan was foiled in 1985, when a heavy truck traveling downtown on Main Street disappeared into a hole after the pavement collapsed under its weight.
After that, the tunnels were transformed into the town's hottest attraction. Today, the Tunnels of Moose Jaw offer tourists two theatrical-style tours that aim to educate and entertain simultaneously. One discusses the living conditions of impoverished Chinese laborers, who lived in the tunnels in the early 1900s.
The second describes the bootlegging history of the tunnels during the Prohibition years. Perched at the end of the Soo Line that runs to this day to Chicago, Moose Jaw became a convenient retreat for the mob.
The tour insinuates that Al Capone came to town at least once, and the legend of his visit lives on, despite substantial historical evidence to the contrary. Still, it provides good comedy during the tour, rich imaginative fodder for visitors and a convenient theme for city hotels.
For information, log on to: www.moosejaw.ca/tourism , or call 1-866-693-8097.