Andrew Guckes | Staff Writer
Molly Yeh has made a name for herself, in part, by coming up with home-run recipes that combine her Chinese and Jewish roots. She has accomplished a lot, but these fusion recipes are emblematic of her skill: the words “scallion pancake challah” alone give a window into the creativity that Yeh possesses in the kitchen.
That isn’t to say, though, that everything has been a success. Some classics, she said, are too good for even the finest chef’s twist.
“I think I made a ginger scallion matzo ball soup once. It was fine, it wasn’t a total failure, but it taught me that matzo ball soup shouldn’t really be messed with to that degree,” Yeh said.
There has been a lot of trial and error in Yeh’s ascendance in the American food world, garnering nominations for James Beard and Emmy awards along the way. Now, she is widely known as the star of the Food Network cooking show “Girl Meets Farm,” as well as a successful chef, blogger and businesswoman.
Yeh will bring her talents to Philadelphia on March 5, when she presents her new cookbook “Sweet Farm!” at the Weitzman National Museum of American Jewish History.
Yeh will discuss her book, the show and the other work that led to her being named to Forbes’ 30 under 30 list for Food and Drink industry professionals in 2017 with Ellen Yin, owner of Philadelphia’s legendary Fork Restaurant. Yin founded and co-owns High Street Hospitality Group, which operates a number of dining establishments.
“I’m so excited to talk with Ellen Yin!” Yeh said. “I admire her so much and there’s so much we have in common. I can’t wait to tell the stories behind ‘Sweet Farm!’ and connect with readers in Philadelphia.”
As for what she looks forward to specifically in the City of Brotherly Love?
“I’m so excited to call water ‘whuter’ and be understood,” Yeh said.
She added that her Philadelphia favorites include anything that Yin made, pistachio ice cream from Bassetts, water ice from Rita’s, “everything” from K’far, the tahini milkshake and falafel at Goldie, and any and all donuts from Federal Donuts.
While Yeh has a nationally syndicated show and tours the country, a large part of her story and identity is rooted in the fact that she and her family live on a farm in the 8,000-person town of East Grand Forks, Minnesota. Her husband is a fifth -generation farmer, and while living in a rural town on the border of Minnesota and North Dakota makes it hard to source some ingredients, Yeh has worked out a system over the years.
“I’ve honestly just had to get into the habit of traveling with an extra suitcase so that I can buy ingredients when I visit big cities and bring them back home,” she said. “The internet helps too.”
While East Grand Forks doesn’t offer the variety that some coastal megalopolises do, it has a lot going for it, Yeh said. For one, the community focuses on tradition instead of hype.
“East Grand Forks is not a ‘scene’ in that you’re not going to find dozens of new restaurant openings a year and lines around the block for the latest viral donut, as you would in a big city, but that doesn’t mean it lacks a rich food culture,” she said. “I’ve learned more about food, agriculture and American food history here than I ever did living in a city. I definitely am one to be energized having separation from the rat race of a food ‘scene’ because I don’t really like being distracted by long lines and virality.”
Yeh said that, for this reason, she credits a lot of her success to her home base.
“Of course, high-speed internet on the farm has helped,” she said with a laugh.
In the demanding world of restaurateurship and viral influence, Yeh has been able to cut through the noise with her sincerity. Trained as a classical xylophonist and raised by legendary Chicago Symphony Orchestra member John Bruce Yeh, many of the skills that Yeh learned in her music career have helped her in the kitchen, too.
“I look at the farm as one big practice room where I can be alone and hone my skills, whether it’s on the xylophone or baking a cake; it’s not terribly different,” she said.
On the farm, Yeh is in her element. On tour, she gets to share windows into that life with everyone else. And at the Weitzman next month, she’ll get to do so with other Jews.
A lot of recipes will be shared, although it’s doubtful that any of them will be creative takes on matzo ball soup.
