Jules Polonetsky
For decades, the kosher wine market has been defined by a singular, overwhelming preference. While our palates are diversifying with a wider variety of kosher foods from every region of the world, the data for wine remains striking. Cabernet Sauvignon commands roughly one-third of all kosher wine sales and nearly 60% of the dry red market. It is the “security blanket” of the kosher palate, the reliable choice for the Shabbat table and for fancy meals.
But as our community’s wine culture matures, there is a growing realization that “reliable” doesn’t have to mean “repetitive.” If you are looking to break out of your Cabernet rut without sacrificing the depth, structure and oak-aged character you love, there is no better destination than Rioja and its prized grape, Tempranillo.
Located in north-central Spain, Rioja is not just a region; it is a philosophy of winemaking that prioritizes patience, oak-aging and the unique character of the Tempranillo grape. For those ready to venture beyond the 60% Cabernet majority, Rioja offers an Old-World sophistication that is both approachable and profoundly complex.
Rioja’s prestige is rooted in its diverse geography. The region is divided into three distinct sub-zones, each contributing a different personality to the final blend:
• Rioja Alta: The high-altitude, cooler western part of the region. Wines here are known for their elegance, higher acidity and incredible aging potential.
• Rioja Alavesa: Located in the Basque Country, this zone produces wines with a bit more “scent” and freshness. The soil here is often more calcareous, leading to wines with a distinct finesse.
• Rioja Oriental: The easternmost and warmest part of the region. Here, the climate is more Mediterranean, and the wines tend to be riper and fuller-bodied.
While some wines are 100% Tempranillo, many are blends. You might see Garnacha (Grenache) added for body, or Graciano and Mazuelo added for acidity and color. The result is a wine that feels more “savory” than the fruit-forward Cabernets many of us are used to.
Decoding the Label: Age Matters
One of the most helpful aspects of Rioja for the consumer is that the label tells you exactly how the wine was aged. Unlike many regions where “Reserva” is a marketing term with no legal weight, in Rioja, these classifications are strictly regulated.
For the Cabernet drinker, a Rioja Reserva is the “sweet spot.” It offers the structured tannins and oak influence you enjoy, but with the added “tertiary” flavors that come from aging — think notes of leather, tobacco and dried spices alongside the plum and cherry fruit.
Fortunately for the kosher consumer, Rioja is well-represented on our shelves. Two producers, in particular, have set the standard for Spanish kosher wine.
Ramon Cardova is the kosher line produced by Ramon Bilbao, a well-regarded Spanish winery. The label pays homage to Cordova, hometown of the sage Maimonides. Their standard Rioja is a reliable, crowd-pleasing Tempranillo. However, for a more elevated experience, look for their Old Vines Reserva. It provides a deeper, more concentrated profile that can stand up to the richest brisket or lamb shank.
Founded by Dr. Moises Cohen and his wife Ana, Elvi Wines is a boutique powerhouse. Their Herenza line of Rioja is a masterclass in regional expression. The Herenza Crianza is vibrant and versatile, while the Herenza Reserva is a sophisticated, high-scoring wine that frequently rivals the best non-kosher Reservas in international competitions. Elvi doesn’t just make “kosher wine”; they make exceptional Spanish wine that happens to be kosher.
In recent years, we have seen limited kosher runs from prestigious estates like Bodegas Faustino. The Faustino Rioja sold out quickly at most retailers, but you can occasionally find bottles, so grab it up if you see one.
The Tempranillo grape is grown in a number of other warm-weather regions, including Israel and California, and there are occasional kosher productions from those areas.
Grenache, used as a blend for many Rioja wines, is increasingly grown very successfully as a single varietal in Israel. But the Rioja region has decades of expertise in growing, blending and aging that make these wines special. Note that there are also white Rioja wines made with the Viura grape, but these are much less common, and I haven’t seen a
kosher production.
The beauty of Rioja lies in its food-friendliness. While a massive California Cabernet can sometimes overwhelm a meal, Rioja’s natural acidity and savory profile make it a perfect partner for food.
A traditional pairing in Spain is lamb, but a Crianza or Reserva works beautifully with herb-roasted chicken or slow-cooked stews. Because Tempranillo has thinner skins than Cabernet, the tannins are often smoother and more integrated, making it a very “approachable” wine for a group with varied tastes.
It is easy to reach for the same bottle of Cabernet every week. It’s familiar, and it’s consistent. But the joy of wine lies in the discovery. Rioja offers a bridge between the familiar and the exotic. It provides the body and power we crave, but wraps it in a layer of Old-World sophistication.
Next time you visit your local wine merchant, skip the Cabernet. Head to the Spanish section, pick up a Rioja Reserva, let it breathe for an hour and experience the soul of Spain. Your palate will thank you.
L’Chaim!
Jules Polonetsky is a Wine and Spirits Education Trust Level 3 certified wine expert who edits a wine education website at kosher-wine.org. He is a former consumer affairs commissioner for New York City.
