Yee-Haw! It's a Texas Celebration!

August 28, 2008 - Ethel Hofman, Jewish Exponent Feature

We were in the hill country around Austin, Texas, where wild flowers grow in profusion along the foothills -- a carpet of bright blues, yellow and reds. Huge oaks stretch their branches skyward, providing welcome shade from the intense summer heat. On this hot day in July, we were there to see Scott and Kristen get married.

The wedding-rehearsal dinner hosted by my cousins, Sylvette and Lewis Greenwald, was done in true Texas-style. Each dish reflected the spicy flavors of a state where chiles, corn and beans are staples. No surprise there.

Early Texans ate a lot of corn -- fresh in season, dried in winter, and cornmeal all year round. They learned to soak dried corn in lime water to make the hominy that can be ground into masa, the dough used to make corn tortillas. Wild game supplemented their diet, with a recipe for fried squirrel dating back to 1818 (similar to chicken, they say).

Of course, no squirrel was part of this celebration dinner. Instead, there was a menu made up of tame and fiery state-grown ingredients, all balanced to create sensational dishes.

While in Texas restaurants, an army of sous chefs debate and labor over complicated cooking techniques, the recipes below have been simplified for home use.

Note: Use gloves when chopping chili peppers, and avoid touching your eyes and face.

Tortilla Soup With Spinach
(Dairy)

Texans use strong-flavored Swiss chard, but I substitute the much tamer baby spinach. Chard, with crinkly green leaves and silvery stalks, is a locally grown summer vegetable.

2 Tbsps. corn oil
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1 can (4.5 oz.) chopped chiles
1 Tbsp. chopped garlic
11/2 cups canned or fresh corn kernels
2 tsps. chili powder or to taste
1 can (6 oz.) tomato paste
4 cups low-sodium vegetable broth
2 Tbsps. snipped cilantro
4 cups shredded fresh baby spinach leaves
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
8 oz. Monterey Jack or white brick cheese, shredded
4 cups tortilla chips
1 lime, cut in 4 to 6 wedges (have an extra lime handy)

Heat the corn oil in a pot over medium heat.

Add the onion and sauté over low heat until softened, about 5 minutes.

Add the chiles, garlic and corn. Sauté a few minutes longer until garlic is softened. Do not brown.

Stir in the chili powder and tomato paste. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

Add the broth and cilantro.

Raise heat to medium and bring to simmer, stirring often. Just before serving, stir in the spinach.

To Serve: Ladle the soup into the bowls. Set out other decorative bowls of shredded cheese, tortilla chips and lime wedges. Allow guests to help themselves to the toppings.

Serves 4 to 6.

Approximate nutrients per serving: calories, 392; protein, 15 g; carbohydrates, 4 g; fat, 25 g; cholesterol, 34 mg; sodium, 407 mg.

Black-Bean and Corn Relish
(Pareve)

1 can (15 oz.) black beans, rinsed and drained well
1 cup fresh or thawed, frozen corn kernels
2 plum tomatoes, diced
1 tsp. minced garlic
1/2 small red onion, diced finely
1/4 cup coarsely snipped cilantro
1/2 red or yellow pepper, diced
2 Tbsps. red-wine vinegar
2 Tbsps. fresh lime juice
1 tsp. sugar
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Place all ingredients in a large bowl. Toss gently to mix.

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour for flavors to blend before spooning over lettuce wedges.

Serves 6.

Approximate nutrients per serving: calories, 56; protein, 3 g; carbohydrates, 13 g; fat, 0 g; cholesterol, 0 mg; sodium, 236 mg.

Avocado-Ranch Dressing
(Pareve)

1 large ripe avocado, peel and seed removed
3 Tbsps. fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup puréed, soft silken tofu
1/2 cup mayonnaise
3/4 tsp. chili powder or to taste
1/2 tsp. garlic powder
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1 scallion, very thinly sliced
salt and pepper to taste

Mash the avocado with the lemon juice.

Stir in the remaining ingredients to blend.

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Serve chilled.

Makes 2 cups.

Approximate nutrients per tablespoon: calories, 37; protein, 0 g; carbohydrates, 1 g; fat, 4 g; cholesterol, 2 mg; sodium, 21 mg.

Chipotle-Glazed Salmon
(Pareve)

Chipotle peppers are available in jars, canned or dried. May substitute one bottled jalapeño pepper, seeded and chopped, or one fresh seeded.

4 pieces (5-6 oz. each) salmon fillet
1 chipotle chile pepper, seeded and chopped
1/4 cup barbecue sauce
1 Tbsp. Dijon-style mustard
1 Tbsp. red-wine vinegar
1/3 cup apple juice

Preheat oven to 400°.

Spray a baking pan with nonstick cooking spray.

Rinse salmon in cold water and pat dry. Place, skin-side up, on prepared baking pan.

In a bowl, mash together the peppers, barbecue sauce, mustard, vinegar and apple juice. Spread evenly over the salmon.

Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until flakes are opaque when separated with a knife.

Serves 4.

Approximate nutrients per serving: calories, 327; protein, 35 g; carbohydrates, 4 g; fat, 18 g; cholesterol, 112 mg; sodium, 208 mg.

Cilantro-Lime Rice
(Pareve)

If you're hesitant about using jalapeños, substitute 3/4 teaspoon dried-pepper flakes. Remove seeds from jalapeño before chopping.

11/2 cups long-grain rice
3 cups water
1/3 cup snipped cilantro, loosely packed
3 Tbsps. snipped chives
11/2 Tbsps. jalapeño, finely chopped
2 Tbsps. lime juice
1 Tbsp. grated lime rind
1 Tbsp. corn oil
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Place the rice and water in a medium saucepan. Cover and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low.

Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until rice is tender and water is absorbed. Remove from heat.

Add the remaining ingredients and fluff with a fork.

Approximate nutrients per serving: calories, 189; protein, 3 g; carbohydrates, 37 g; fat, 3 g; cholesterol, 0 mg; sodium, 2 mg.

Mango-Strawberry Trifle
(Dairy)

Custard is prepared from a packaged mix using whole milk. If you don't have parfait glasses, use wine glasses for a stunning presentation.

4 slices (1/2-inch thick) pound cake
4 Tbsps. sherry
8 strawberries, quartered
2 cups vanilla custard
2 ripe, medium mangoes, peeled, stoned and diced
1/2 cup whipped cream or whipped topping
mint sprigs (optional)

Cut the pound cake into 1/2-inch chunks. Divide equally between 4 glasses.

Sprinkle with sherry.

Top with strawberries, reserving 4 quarters for garnish.

Spoon custard over, then cover with diced mango.

Garnish with whipped cream, reserved strawberries and mint sprigs (optional).

Serves 4.

Approximate nutrients per serving: calories, 358; protein, 8 g; carbohydrates, 48 g; fat, 14 g; cholesterol, 93 mg; sodium, 312 mg.

Ethel G. Hofman, author of the recent Mackerel at Midnight, is also a past president of the International Association of Culinary Professionals.