Giving Dubrovnik Its Due

A panoramic view of Dubrovnik's famed coast

Dubrovnik is often called the jewel of the Adriatic Sea, and it's easy to see why. The southern Croatian city nestled behind the impressively well-preserved fortification walls, its marble-paved pedestrian alleys and its breathtaking sea views embody old-world European romance and a rich cultural history.

Don't believe me? Well, then, lace up your sneakers and get moving to discover Dubrovnik's medieval town center and UNESCO World Heritage site known locally as Stari Grad.

Undoubtedly, one of the best ways to kick off your walk through time is with a bird's eye view of the place, and there are a few ways to see the lay of the land and sea. Just outside the city's Pile Gate entrance, for instance, you'll see Lovrjenac Fort, a stand-alone structure that climbs 37 meters out of the crystal-clear sea.

Construction on the fort, which was designed to protect Dubrovnik from foreign invaders, namely the Venetians, began in 1018 C.E.and was finished in the 16th century. It's a long flight of stairs up to the top, but the views of the nearby island Lokrum and sunlight bouncing off the waves are worth the thigh and hamstring workout.

Now that you have had your warm-up, you're ready to clamber up to the ramparts circling the city (tickets to walk the walls will run you about 50 kuna, or $11). Considered among Europe's most elaborate remaining fortifications, the walls are, in some areas, 22 meters high and up to six meters thick. From here, you can look down onto the Stradun (the main drag also referred to as Placa) and the terra-cotta tile rooftops, many of which have been fully restored since the mid-1990s, when the country's Homeland War with Yugoslavia damaged homes and monuments.

If all this time travel has made you hungry, pull up a chair and replenish with some Dalmatian favorites. You won't have to look far for gastronomic treats, such as homemade cheese, olives, potatoes with chard, pizza and locally produced wine.

Of course, given Dubrovnik's close ties to the sea, fresh fish commonly appear on most menus.

Lokanda-Peskarija -- with its classic wood touches inside and its harbor-fronting terrace outside -- makes for a relaxing lunch spot.

The city's main street at dusk

Enjoy that last sip of biljela vina ("white wine") and lace up those runners again. We're off to explore more of Stari Grad. Coming back in from the harbor, you'll want to linger for a while around the Cathedral, the Rector's Palace, St. Blaise Church, City Hall and the Bell Tower. This is where Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture come together in an awe-inspiring way.

But if you want to deepen your appreciation of a place that time seems to have forgotten, zigzag through the alleys off the Stradun. There's a treasure trove of remnants from by-gone eras tucked away and often overlooked down these passageways.

Oldest Sephardic Synagogue

One of these treasures is the Synagogue on "Jewish Street." The building, like the city, has survived its share of natural and human disasters. Established in the 14th century and rebuilt in 1652 after a devastating earthquake, the synagogue has held its ground through two world wars, the Communist regime and, more recently, the Homeland War.

The building, still used by Dubrovnik's small Jewish community -- said to number about 50 people -- is the oldest Sephardic synagogue in the world and the second-oldest in Europe, according to local sources and the Beit Hatfutsot's Nahum Goldmann Museum of the Jewish Diaspora.

Today, it also houses a museum of valuable artifacts, including Torah scrolls dating back to the 13th or 14th century. The scrolls are thought to have been brought to Dubrovnik by Sephardic exiles expelled from Spain around 1492. These scrolls contain some of the oldest examples of Hebrew script, a calligraphy style that is markedly different from the script found in most Torah scrolls.

You'll also find other notable pieces in the museum, such as a Chanukah lamp from Central Europe that dates back to the 18th or 19th century; and historical decrees that limit or restore Jewish civil liberties, depending on the year.

A typical street scene in Dubrovnik, with just the right old-world touches

On the other side of the Stradun, is Gundulieva Poljana, the square where the lively daily morning market is set up, and a bit further up on Za Rokom, is Crkva Domino ("Domino Church"), a three-nave church that has an unusual rectangular apse and hosts various music concerts.

Back near Pile Gate, quench your thirst at the gigantic Onofrio Fountain, where fresh water runs from 16 stone-carved masks (yes, the water is potable, and probably some of the best you'll find in Croatia).

Cap off your grand tour with a visit to the Franciscan Monastery and Museum, which originally dates back to 1318. The columns rounding the courtyard are adorned with detailed stone carvings considered to be fine examples of late Romanesque work. The monastery also houses a pharmacy, again thought to be one of the oldest in Europe.

Need to rest up?

Do it with a bit of style.

The grand Hilton Imperial (www.dubrovnik.hilton.com) or boutique-style Pucic Palace (www.thepucicpalace.com), both five stars, should fit the bill. There are also many accommodations, suiting all budgets, in and around Stari Grad and in the Lapad, Gru, Babin Kuk and Ploe neighborhoods; private rooms and flats can be found.

To learn more, visit the Dubrovnik Tourist Board at: www.tzdubrovnik.hr.