The Lure of the Land

Make use of fresh produce to carry you through the winter
August 21, 2008 - Louise Fiszer, Jewish Exponent Feature

Year after year, my local farmer's market has never failed to surprise and seduce me. I go there each weekend promising myself to buy prudently; after all, I'm only cooking for two much of the time. But then I taste a new variety of heirloom tomato, smell a special hybrid peach, see a bunch of multicolored carrots -- and my resolve disappears, like last week's irresistible bing cherries.

Emptying my produce basket at home, I try to think of upcoming simchas that I can cook for, utilizing my farmer's market bounty. Since the whole point is freshness, I usually create simple dishes to be consumed mid-week with a few special ones for Shabbat dinner.

Fresh sweet peas and crunchy ears of ivory corn can't wait for that special occasion, while the lusciously ripe stone fruits from local orchards can be turned into compotes, or tarts to be served at the end of the week perfect for Friday night.

If ambition overtakes me, I can make the flavors last over the winter, until the market reopens, by cooking and preserving some sweet and pungent chutneys and jams.

Plum Torte
(Pareve)

3/4 cup plus 1 or 2 Tbsps. sugar
8 Tbsps. margarine
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted
1 tsp. baking powder
2 eggs
pinch salt
24 halved pitted small plums (Santa Rosa or Italian)
1 tsp. ground cinnamon, or more

Preheat oven to 350°.

In an electric mixer, cream the 3/4 cup sugar and butter.

Add the flour, baking powder, eggs and salt; beat to mix well.

Place in a 9- or 10-inch ungreased springform pan.

Cover the top with the plums, skin-side down.

Mix the cinnamon with the remaining 1 or 2 tablespoons of sugar and sprinkle over the top.

Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until the center tests done with a toothpick. Remove and cool to room temperature or serve when still warm.

Note: The torte may be refrigerated overnight or frozen for several months, well-wrapped.

To serve, return to room temperature and reheat at 300° until warm.

Serves 8.

Summertime Minestrone
(Pareve)

3 Tbsps. olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
6 cups vegetable broth
2 carrots, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds
2 celery stalks, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 lb. green beans, trimmed, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 small zucchini, halved lengthwise, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3 cups fresh corn kernels
2 cups fresh peas
2 tomatoes, peeled, crushed
2 cups fresh spinach leaves, chopped
1-2 cups cooked pasta
6 Tbsps. pesto (optional)

Heat olive oil in heavy large pot over medium heat.

Add the onion and sauté until soft, about 4 minutes.

Add the broth and the next seven ingredients.

Increase heat to high and bring soup to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, partially cover the pot, and simmer for about 10 minutes.

Stir in the spinach and pasta; simmer 3 minutes longer.

Season soup to taste with salt and pepper.

Ladle soup into six bowls; garnish each with 1 tablespoon pesto. Serve. (On a really hot day, this soup is refreshingly delicious served cold.)

Makes 6 servings.

Heirloom Tomato Salad
(Dairy)

6 large Heirloom tomatoes, more or less the same size, sliced
2 cucumbers, peeled, seeded and sliced
1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 cup crumbled blue cheese
2 Tbsps. chopped fresh dill
2 Tbsps. balsamic vinegar
4 Tbsps. extra-virgin olive oil

On a platter, arrange half the tomato slices. Cover with half the cucumber slices and half the onion.

Sprinkle with half the cheese and dill. Drizzle with half the vinegar and half the oil.

Repeat layering.

Serve at room temperature

Serves 8.

Peach Chutney
(Pareve)

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsps. finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 tsp. mustard seeds
2 large peaches, diced
1/3 cup dried currants (11/2 oz.)
3/4 cup water
1/3 cup red-wine vinegar
1/4 cups sugar
3/4 tsp. salt

Cook garlic and ginger in oil in a 1- to 11/2-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring, until golden, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the mustard seeds and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add the remaining ingredients and simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until almost all liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes (the chutney should be moist).

Cool to room temperature.

May be refrigerated or frozen.

Serve with roasts, or grilled poultry and meat.

Makes about 3 cups.

Louise Fiszer is a California cooking teacher and food writer. Among the six books she's co-authored is Jewish Holiday Feasts.