Jerusalem of Gold Shows Off Its Mettle

Fireworks over (not in) the Knesset

There were those who said we wouldn't make it, but here we are: Little Israel -- sweet on the inside, feisty on the outside -- our country turns 60 this month, marching into maturity with both grace and defiance.

Our enemies regard the day as a nakba, a "catastrophe," but that's expected. Nothing's going to stop the celebration. You only turn 60 once.

For those of us lucky enough to live here, we're faced with choosing which of the scores of events and celebrations we'll attend -- and then figure out how to get there. Our normal insane traffic will quadruple as legions of politicians and celebrities pour in. George Bush, Tony Blair, Mikhail Gorbachev and Vaclav Havel are coming or have arrived as have Henry Kissinger, Elie Wiesel and Alan Dershowitz.

One superstar canceled: Barbra Streisand decided not sing her version of "Avenu Malkeinu" at Shimon Peres' anniversary bash, but that's okay. We can sing it ourselves. Even so, officials warn that security will be the tightest ever imposed in Israel, which spells traffic chaos for anyone without access to a flag-bedecked limousine.

For people with a sense of history, one popular place to go will be the Ir David Visitor Center, where tours are available. This is a first: In Jerusalem, just outside the Old City walls, near Dung Gate, lies proof-positive that while the modern country of Israel celebrates its 60th birthday, Jerusalem has been Jewish for nearly 3,000 years.

It's all possible because three years ago, Eilat Mazar -- Israel's most intrepid archaeologist -- broke through bureaucratic and financial barriers to begin what was then a highly controversial dig, searching for the long-lost palace of King David.

Mazar insisted the palace would be found just outside the walls, precisely where the book of Samuel said it was. With her trowel in one hand and a Bible in the other, Mazar excavated, and much to the astonishment of the world's nay-sayers, she found it. Today, as the Mazar excavation turns up more and more artifacts from King David's era, Jews can prove what they always knew: There's nothing mythical about King David's rule over the royal city of Jerusalem.

Another way to celebrate is on a bike, either human-peddled or motored. For the last two weeks, motor bikers from the United States, Canada, Australia and Israel made the byways of Israel tremble as their mighty kosher "hogs" transversed the country in every direction. From Eilat to the Golan to the Mediterranean and back, the bikers took their time reaching their final destination, Yad Vashem, the Holocaust memorial.

These aren't kids on bikes, either. Several are celebrating their own 60th birthdays right along with Israel.

Speaking of kids, the beleaguered young people from the much-bombarded village of Sederot plan to celebrate with a completely normal day, swimming, playing sports and jumping on trampolines. The thing is, for these kids, being able to play outside and splash each other in a swimming pool is an almost unheard-of luxury.

Lots of New Endeavors

Trees figure into the "Israel at 60" celebrations, too. The Jewish National Fund promises to plant a free tree in honor of anyone who is either 60 years old this year or is celebrating a 60th wedding anniversary.

The number "60" also prompted mini-makeovers for several of Israel's parks. The Kinneret gained a new 60-kilometer (37-mile) bike path; 60 new monuments for Israel's fallen heroes were constructed; and 60 new wheelchair-accessible picnic sites and 60 new playgrounds were inaugurated.

Even El Al joined in the "60" hoopla, appealing to the failure-to-grasp-the-concept crowd. For Israelis who prefer to celebrate their nation's 60th anniversary somewhere else, El Al offered special bargain fares -- ending in 60! -- to destinations all outside Israel.

A celebratory fly-by by the Israeli Air Force

Of course, the reverse was true as well. The Jewish Agency and the Ministry of Absorption proclaimed the 60th birthday as International Aliyah Day. New immigrants from North America, France, Russia, Ukraine and South America benefited from extra perks.

Of course, in Israel, everything is controversial. Starting last February, the Atzuma Web site began running an online petition, calling on officials to cut the budget for all anniversary celebrations, channeling the money instead to "important, just and moral causes."

Israeli conductor Daniel Barenboim chimed in as another Scrooge. He not only refused to take part in anniversary celebrations, but bad-mouthed the event whenever anyone stuck a microphone in his face. "It is 60 years of Israel's independence, which also means that it is 60 years of suffering of the people who were here," he snarled.

Ah, well. Barenboim won't be missed. Three massive concerts, north to south, make sure everyone's celebration includes music. And everyone will enjoy the most spectacular event, the music and laser light shows that everyone from Eilat, Beersheva, Tiberias, Haifa, Netanya, Jerusalem, Tel Aviv and Ashdod will be able to see.

The military isn't missing a beat, either. A fly-by by the Israel Air Force should be visible in most parts of the country.

But if there's one single thing that will draw all Israelis together on this 60th anniversary holiday, it will be the humble mangel -- the "barbecue."

In parks, backyards and all over the country, Israelis new and old, babies and grandparents, wealthy and struggling, will gather together, family by family, to light the coals and set about cooking. Israel's official 60th-anniversary song, Naomi Shemer's haunting "Jerusalem of Gold," will be heard all over.

For all of us here in Israel, it's Jerusalem, forever our golden and eternal city, that crowns our 60 years.

Next Week: A local couple write of their return visit to Israel after many years.