In the Mood for a Country Song? Try 'Romania, Romania'

May 01, 2008 - Silke Schmidt, Jewish Exponent Feature

A synagogue is one of many eye-popping scenes in this ancient nation

When Katarina Kirr left her home village of Meschen, Transylvania, she was just about 9 years old. Back then, the Transylvania Saxon family was allowed to take with them only what they could carry.

Their little farm was given to a Romanian policeman and his wife, their only cow Leni sent to the butcher shop. The Kirr family immigrated to Germany and built a new life. But they never forgot their home.

Now, 42 years later, Katarina Kirr is back: Back in Romania, in Transylvania, back in Meschen.

Time, it seems, has not moved very much there -- as in most other Transylvanian villages -- throughout the last decades: Oxen draw the farmers' ploughs on the fields; horses also do it -- if the farmer is a little better-off. Those who can afford a tractor -- a rare treasure -- may call themselves rich.

The little houses, built gate to gate along the streets, are colorfully painted. Often, though, the paint is flaking. Working in the fields and earning money to secure the family's next meals are more important than covering the house with a new layer of fresh, but expensive, paint. At least the church fortress -- center of the village and also its landmark -- is being renovated.

A building in Sibiu looks sleepy

As Katarina Kirr walks along the streets, she tells stories about how things were back in the old days: "Every morning at seven, the village cowherd walked through Meschen. The farmers opened the gates, and the cows and water buffalo walked to the village pasture together. At night, they returned. Every animal knew exactly where to go, they always walked to the right gate."

Leni, the skewbald family cow, used to stick her head through the kitchen window when she came home, "hoping for a rind of bread." Leni is no more, but village shepherds and cowherds are still a common sight in the villages of Transylvania. The ritual of picking the herds up in the morning and leading them back home at night has not changed.

As Katarina reaches what used to be her home -- a small farmhouse painted a peeling pink -- she stops and knocks at the door. Before long, an old woman appears; it is the policeman's wife. With a welcoming hug, she invites the unexpected guest in. The vines that Katarina's grandfather once planted still grow each year across the narrow yard. The grapes are ripe and a deep blue, with a taste that reminds one of blueberries.

Forty years ago, Transylvania used to be famous for its wines and vineyards, most of which were tended to by Transylvania Saxons, whose ancestors came to Romania several hundred years ago and brought the art of winemaking with them. Today, the majority of Saxons are gone, and few vineyards remain. Still, most families -- Romanians and Gypsies alike -- grow a few vines of their own, to make their own juice and wine.

A small tower stands sentry in Brasov

As Romanian hospitality is legendary and strangers become friends quite fast, it is the custom to serve homemade wine, or tsuica, a strong but aromatic schnapps, to guests. Along with piles of food: Stuffed cabbage, for example, or polenta -- which is called palukkes in Transylvania. Or cakes like cozonac, made from yeast dough and filled with walnuts and poppy-seed paste. Or a Romanian sweet called rahat.

A year ago, Romania officially became part of the European Union. And while in the rural villages the modern age seems to have not yet arrived, Transylvanian towns like Brasov are as historic as they indeed are modern.

"A lot has been done with European Union aid money," says Alex Ujupan, a 26-year-old Romanian who earns his living as a self-employed tour guide in Brasov and Sibiu. Brasov's old town, for example, has been nicely restored -- as has Sibiu's, where on lots of historic buildings, the roof windows look like sleepy eyes.

Lots of different people and religions make up Romanian society: Before the Saxons came to Transylvania, most Romanians were of Romanian Orthodox or Catholic belief.

Today, most Romanians are Orthodox, a good many Gypsies Catholic, the descendants of the Saxons, still Protestant.

Jews have always been a minority, and today, there are only about 10,000 in all. Sibiu's Jewish community counts 24, and in Brasov, too, the community is rather small. Small, yes, but proud and with a rich history: Brasov's Jewish community and the beautiful synagogue have just celebrated their 200th anniversary. Hopes for a good, lively, modern future remain strong throughout all of Romania.

"But for now, it remains a country where most travelers from Western countries will get the feeling like they traveled back through time 50 years,"says Alex Ujupan.

Yet, he adds: "There's lots to discover, come over!

"And I promise -- Dracula is only [a] legend."

Info to Go
Romania's only major international airport at present is in Bucharest. Renting a car is possible, yet expect an adventure: As Romania has only about 60 miles of expressway, and most rural streets are rather bumpy, driving at night should be avoided by all visitors.

The potholes in the streets can be risky. For a 150-mile ride, expect about six hours of driving time. The Romanian train and bus system is quite reliable and easy to use.

Most younger Romanians in towns do speak English or German; however, it might happen that in small villages you will have to use your hands to speak.

In bigger towns like Medias, Sibiu, Brasov or Bucharest, you will find many hostels, most of which meet Western standards. In smaller villages, the local churches sometimes have quite comfortable and inexpensive guesthouses. Often, local families will also rent rooms.

For information, visit: www.romaniatourism.com.